The West Bank of Luxor – Beyond the Valley of the Kings

Most tour providers offer you the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon.  The rest of the day can sometimes involve an obligatory stop at an alabaster shop.

I prefer to show you more.

The West Bank of Luxor is the ancient necropolis of Thebes: a landscape of royal tombs, magnificent temples, forgotten villages and stories of ambition, betrayal, magic and the afterlife.  It is also where some of the most fascinating discoveries about the lives of the ancient Egyptians have been made.

I invite you to step beyond the Nile and spend a day exploring six of its most interesting sites.  But don’t just look at the monuments.  Come prepared to use your imagination and discover the people, events and beliefs that gave these places their meaning.

Our full-day West Bank Tour departs from Mara House at 7:30 am.  We take our time, avoid unnecessary stops and give you the opportunity to enjoy each site rather than rushing through a checklist.

The Six Main Sites on Our West Bank Tour

Valley of the Kings – The Final Resting Place of the Pharaohs

Home to more than 60 tombs carved deep into the desert mountainside, the Valley of the Kings is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in Egypt.

I sometimes think we have become so accustomed to calling these places tombs that we forget what they actually are: graves.  These were the final resting places of people who believed they were preparing for an eternal journey.  There is something rather sobering about walking through them.

Perhaps my feelings about the Valley go back to a rather bizarre childhood experience.  When I was about ten, some friends thought it would be a great prank to lock me inside a small concrete burial chamber in an old graveyard near my home in Ireland.  It wasn’t funny!  I found myself alone with three coffins, their lids sitting askew, and could see the skull and upper part of the body inside the coffin in front of me.  Thankfully, I managed to keep calm until I was rescued, but I have never quite forgotten the experience.

I still feel that the ancient Egyptians deserve a little more respect when we enter their burial places.  These tombs were never intended as tourist attractions, and I do believe that the mummies should, at the very least, be covered respectfully and treated as we would treat the graves of our own loved ones.

During your visit, you’ll explore three tombs included in the standard entrance ticket.  The selection changes as tombs are opened and closed in rotation for conservation, so I don’t name them here.

There are also several exceptional tombs available for an additional ticket, purchased separately at the ticket office.  These currently include:

  • Tutankhamun: The tomb of the young king is a special experience in its own right.  But there is a story about his extraordinary appearance to a man I met there some years ago that you probably haven’t heard.  Tutankhamun’s Secret – What Happens When the Crowds Are Gone?
  • Seti I: An extraordinary Pharaoh whose son, Ramses II, went on to become one of Egypt’s most celebrated rulers.  There is also a fascinating story connecting Seti I with Omm Sety, the Englishwoman Dorothy Eady.  The Love Story of Seti I and Omm Sety
  • Ramses V and VI: An impressive tomb with beautifully decorated chambers.

The tomb of Nefertari, in the nearby Valley of the Queens, is another exceptional experience.  It is currently closed to ordinary visitors, although private visits are possible.

A special recommendation: If you are interested in something beyond the standard Valley of the Kings experience, ask me about the tomb of Thutmose III.  It is an intense and mysterious place, and one of my personal favourites.  Access is restricted and requires a much more expensive private visit.

It is important to understand the difference between a private tour and a private visit.  They are not the same thing. Read about Private Tours versus Private Visits in Egypt.

More stories behind the Valley of the Kings:

Temple of Hatshepsut – A Woman in a Man’s World

Built against the dramatic limestone cliffs of Deir el-Bahri, the mortuary temple of Hatshepsut is one of the most recognisable monuments on the West Bank.

Hatshepsut was one of Egypt’s most successful rulers, a woman who assumed the full responsibilities and titles of a Pharaoh in a world dominated by men. Her temple tells us much about her ambitions, her achievements and the way she wanted future generations to remember her.

Look beyond the impressive architecture and you’ll find stories of political manoeuvring, royal identity, trade expeditions and the complicated relationship between Hatshepsut and her successor, Thutmose III.

She was a remarkable woman, and her story deserves more than a quick photograph in front of the temple.

Read more: Hatshepsut – A Woman in a Man’s World

Tombs of the Nobles – The Lives Behind the Royal Court

The Tombs of the Nobles offer something quite different from the royal tombs.  Here you step into the lives of the administrators, scribes, priests and other important people who served the Pharaohs.

Their tombs are filled with scenes of family life, agriculture, feasting, music, religious ceremonies and everyday activities.  They offer a fascinating glimpse into a world beyond the royal court.

What I find particularly interesting is how differently these people approached life and death.  Not everyone had the same priorities or aspirations.  Some were clearly more interested in material success, while others seemed to have a deeper curiosity about spiritual teachings and the mysteries of existence.

The decoration and symbolism in these tombs give us plenty to think about.  You may find yourself looking at some of the scenes rather differently once you understand what lies behind them.

Medinet Habu – The Temple of Ramses III

Medinet Habu is one of the West Bank’s great treasures, yet it is often overlooked by visitors who spend most of their time in the Valley of the Kings.

This enormous complex was far more than a temple.  It was a royal residence, an administrative centre and a fortified enclosure.  Its walls preserve some of the most extraordinary historical records of ancient Egypt.

This was where Ramses III ruled, and where a dramatic palace conspiracy involving one of his wives and a son ultimately led to his murder.

I have a particularly memorable story connected with this temple.  A French guest staying at Mara House once entered Medinet Habu and became so overwhelmed with emotion that he broke down in tears and had to leave.  He was genuinely inconsolable.

Years later, learning more about the events surrounding Ramses III, his family and the so-called Screaming Mummy made me wonder about that experience.  Was the Frenchman’s sadness his own, his father’s, or something connected with the events that took place here?  Who really knows what we sometimes tap into when visiting these ancient places?

Medinet Habu is somewhere I particularly enjoy exploring with guests because there is so much to discover beyond the impressive walls.

Some of my stories behind Medinet Habu:

And if you’re interested in the ancient Egyptian understanding of magic and the power of words, these two articles make interesting additional reading:

Deir el-Medina – Village of the Royal Tomb Builders

Imagine living in a village where your neighbours were the men responsible for creating the Pharaohs’ eternal resting places.

Deir el-Medina was home to the craftsmen who built and decorated the royal tombs in the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens.  Their houses, workshops and their own beautifully decorated tombs have given archaeologists an extraordinary insight into everyday life.

We know about their families, their arguments, their working conditions, their religious beliefs and even their love lives.  Ostraca, graffiti, letters and other written records have preserved the voices of ordinary people in a way that is rarely possible in ancient history.

It is one of the places that reminds us that ancient Egypt was not just about kings and queens.  It was also about the people who lived, worked, loved and raised families here.

Colossi of Memnon – Guardians of the Theban Necropolis

These two enormous statues of Amenhotep III have stood watch over the Theban necropolis for more than 3,000 years.

They once guarded the entrance to a vast mortuary temple, much of which has disappeared.  Archaeological work continues behind the statues, revealing more about the enormous complex that once stood here.

In Roman times, one of the statues became famous for producing a mysterious singing sound at dawn.  Visitors travelled from far and wide to hear it, including Roman emperors.  The phenomenon was eventually silenced following repairs to the statue.

Personally, I was overwhelmed with emotion the first time I stood in front of the Colossi.  Many of our guests have described a similar feeling, a strange sense of being remembered by something ancient.

I also find myself wondering about the temple that once stood behind them.  There are so many questions about ancient history that remain unanswered, and I enjoy exploring some of the less conventional possibilities.  The more we discover, the more there is to reconsider.

A Relaxed Lunch Break

After our morning’s exploration, we’ll stop for lunch at a local restaurant.

Lunch isn’t included in the tour price.  I’ve found that when guests order individually from a restaurant menu, the food is generally fresher and better than the meals prepared in advance for large visiting groups.  It also gives you the freedom to choose what you fancy eating.

Why Visit the West Bank with Mara House?

The West Bank deserves more than a hurried drive between monuments.  My aim is to make the day interesting, enjoyable and comfortable, with enough time to appreciate the places you visit and understand something of their history.

  • Six main sites: More than the usual Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut Temple combination.
  • Time to explore: We don’t rush you through the sites simply to fit in a shopping stop.
  • Stories and context: The people, intrigues, beliefs and mysteries behind the monuments are every bit as interesting as the buildings themselves.
  • Transport included: Collection from Mara House and return, so you don’t have to negotiate taxis or organise your own transport.
  • No obligatory shopping: Your tour time belongs to you.

The West Bank is also home to generations of skilled artisans who continue to produce hand-carved alabaster pieces using traditional techniques.  If you are interested, I can arrange a visit to a workshop after the tour.  There is also an internationally recognised craftsman whose exceptional work is suitable for those looking to invest in a very special piece.  These visits are entirely optional and are never substituted for sightseeing time.

Practical Information

  • Departure: 7:30 am from Mara House.
  • Duration: Full day, returning mid to late afternoon depending on your pace.
  • Transport: Included from Mara House and back.
  • Lunch: At a local restaurant, payable separately.
  • Entrance tickets: Included or additional ticket arrangements should be confirmed when booking, depending on the sites and tombs selected.
  • Optional tombs: Additional tickets are purchased separately at the ticket office.
  • What to bring: Water, sunscreen and comfortable walking shoes. Some of the terrain is uneven, so flimsy sandals are not a good idea.

How to Book Your West Bank Tour

It’s easy.  Email me with your preferred date, the number of people in your group and the ages of any children travelling with you.

I personally handle all enquiries and bookings at Mara House, so you’ll be dealing directly with me rather than a booking office.

Email Marie to Arrange Your West Bank Tour

If you’re interested in something beyond the regular sightseeing experience, I can also discuss private visits and access arrangements such as:

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