Luxor Can Still Be Difficult to Navigate, Even for a Seasoned Resident
Returning to Luxor after an extended absence since December 2020 feels like reconnecting with an old friend. Recently, I set out for a trip to the West Bank to visit a stone carver, only to be reminded that even in a place I’ve called home since 2003, surprises await around every corner.
To be clear – I’ve been living in the heart of Egypt’s history, Luxor, for nearly two decades. The shenanigans of taxi drivers, the art of navigating local transport – I’ve mastered these challenges over the years. But as fate would have it, this West Bank journey had more in store than I could have anticipated.
Crossing the Nile
With no buses to the West Bank from the East Bank, a Nile crossing is a must. I took one of the motorboats, which now have a fixed fare due to the ferry’s relocation just across from Luxor Museum. Once across, I hailed a taxi and said, “Nobles Tombs, please.” He agreed without hesitation—but soon, the journey became unexpectedly complicated.
When Taxi Drivers Pretend to be Confused
As we neared the outskirts of the village, his confidence seemed to waver. He turned to me and asked, “Where are the Nobles Tombs?” I won’t dive into every detail, but let’s just say the situation took us to a crossroads near the Valley of the Kings instead of the Nobles Tombs. He looked at me and inquired which direction to take. It was then that I realized something – we had actually passed the Nobles Tombs right across from the Ramesseum earlier, but I wasn’t paying attention.
Taxi Driver: Lost?
I found myself staring at him, a mix of disbelief and shock in my gaze. This was a taxi driver on the West Bank—someone who navigates these paths every day—and he didn’t know about one of the top tourist attractions. He was working the usual “con,” and I had been unprepared; I could feel my blood start to boil!
The disbelief in my eyes mirrored my thoughts as I stared at him. Here I was, a Luxor resident, stuck with a conniving taxi driver in the very landscape I called home. It was a moment that underscored the idea that even in the familiar, life can throw you a curveball.
I quickly reached for my phone and dialed up one of my guides. I needed his help to communicate with the driver in Arabic, as he seemed to conveniently misunderstand both my Arabic and English. Can you believe it? He actually told my guide that he couldn’t grasp the concept of “Nobles Tombs” in English. Seriously?
Turning the tables
He made a U-turn with the taxi, and as we approached the gate of the Nobles’ Tombs, I signaled for him to stop. I calmly informed him that he could take me back to the spot where he had picked me up. You might wonder why I did this. It was because I knew by now that if he were to take me into the Nobles Tombs parking area, the price he’d demand at the journey’s end could be nothing short of astronomical. Now it was his turn to look surprised!
Once we were back along the Nile’s banks, I stepped out of the taxi and requested his license. When he declined, I took his photograph. That upset and startled him.
Call the cops!
At that point, I let him know that I intended to call over the tourist police, who happened to be close by. The three policemen listened to my story in my rusty Arabic, which they had no problem understanding. They knew the story anyway; it wasn’t new to them. My story was met with staunch denial from the taxi driver, and he demanded payment for the ride that had barely happened. In the ensuing argument I kept to one point “should I be obliged to pay for a service that had not been delivered?” The taxi driver, more used to reaching a compromise with “difficult” customers, was now the one getting hot under the collar. It was quite the standoff.
Eventually, the most senior police officer inquired if I wished to formally file a complaint. I replied that the ball was in the driver’s court. If he persisted in demanding payment for a service he had not delivered and for his attempt to deceive me, I would initiate the paperwork. On the other hand, if he acknowledged that I owed him nothing for a trip unfulfilled, I’d let the matter rest.
Problem solved – or was it?
Ultimately, after a moment of contemplation, the now raging taxi driver agreed to let the matter drop.
Undeterred, I agreed to try again with another taxi driver, who was hovering nearby, to take me back to the Nobles’ Tombs to finish what I’d set out to do. Unfortunately, this time, the situation had a frustrating déjà vu. The second taxi driver, who should have learned from listening to the first incident with the police, demanded twice the reasonable fare. I was done arguing the toss for one day. I dropped what I knew to be the correct fare on the passenger seat and walked away.
Let’s just go home!
The journey back to the East Bank via motorboat was also far from pleasant. This time, I encountered a different motorboat operator who denied the existence of the set fare, and who, once again, believed I should cough up more cash simply because I was a foreigner. Again, I held my ground and, quietly but firmly, declined to comply with the unjustified request.
It’s disheartening to realize that navigating Luxor, especially the West Bank, independently, instead of getting easier for foreigners, is growing progressively more challenging as the years go by.
Why Choosing a Reliable Guide Matters
This experience reminded me why our full-day guided West Bank tour is so popular with guests. With experienced guides handling transport, planning, and logistics, you avoid unnecessary stress and enjoy Luxor’s treasures safely and efficiently.
Tips for Travelers Navigating Luxor
- Always confirm taxi or motorboat fares before starting the journey.
- Keep a local guide’s number handy if unfamiliar with locations.
- Use trustworthy services for West Bank excursions to avoid scams.
- Consider looking through our travel planning guide for insider advice on navigating Egypt.
Where to Stay in Luxor
Staying near the East Bank makes East-West travel easier. Our guests love Mara House Luxor for its central location, personalized service, and easy access to both East Bank attractions and guided tours on the West Bank.
While independent travel in Luxor can be unpredictable, planning ahead, using experienced guides, and booking reliable accommodation ensures your experience is smooth, safe, and unforgettable. If you would like me to arrange a tour of the West Bank or have any questions please drop me an email at maraegypt@gmail.com