I’m a sucker for not being able to say “no” when anyone (well, almost anyone) ask for my help with something. And I am not complaining because my life is infinitely richer for all the experiences I have gained from my efforts to comply with requests. I must confess that, looking back on things I have done, I sometimes wonder if any of it was real! Because now, I don’t feel that I was fully conscious or “in the present” when doing half the things I did, such as the one I am about to relate.
Once upon a time, many years ago someone stayed with me at Mara House in Luxor who was very interested in the Sufis and she really wanted to meet a real Sufi. So I went to see an Imam that I knew and told him the story. He said there was one living far away up a mountain and he would ask him to meet the lady. The Sufi said “bring her”.
On the appointed day, the lady, the Imam and myself set off in a minivan. It was quite a distance from Luxor and when we arrived at the foot of the mountain, we all got out of the van and the Imam went up to speak with the Sufi.
As he came back down the mountain, when he was near he raised his voice and beckoned us to come. The lady and myself moved towards the mountain and, as we did, the Sufi shouted to the Imam that I was not allowed, only the lady. I was so disappointed because I would really have liked to chat with a real Sufi too!
However, it was not to be for my lady either because as she neared the Sufi he held up his hand and told the Imam “no!” And without any explanation, he simply refused to talk to her, turned his back and walked away.
What surprised me about the whole incident is that I never pursued the issue after – it was like I forgot about it until now and it never happened.
Many years later I discovered that there is a commercial group of well-known Sufi dancers who put on a show twice a week in a medieval building in Old Cairo. One cannot buy tickets for it in advance, you have to queue up to two hours before the show begins and tickets are limited due to the size of the building. It is a wonderful show and best watched without taking photos. I did that once – no photos – (and not allowed to film). I found it an amazing experience to just get into the music and watch the trance dance – it is a dance of the cycle of life – creation, birth, life and death. Taking photos interrupts the spell the music and the dancers can weave around you – at least that is my experience. I have been to the show several times as I encourage the people on my group tours to experience it. The photos below do not do the performance any justice – apologies.
In my continuous pursuit of new places and experiences for my guests, one day I discovered the original home of the Sufi dance in Cairo and now, while not on my list of tours, I can take people to visit it. The building is still in a state of disrepair especially the water problem in the lower floor, where you can also see that metal supports have been put in to hold up the ceiling. Above this ceiling is the circular floor where the Sufi’s performed the sacred dances.
On my visit there I took some photos of the building and what is on display there. Just being in the building was an experience itself, and I gather from some of the photos there that it was once a place where the upper classes of society frequented.
Below are the tombs of some Sufis. The hats on top are the actual hats that belonged to the sufi’s buried there.
This is the actual costume worn by one of the main Sufis but I am sorry I did not photograph the name on the day.
Below is something I was surprised to find in the building – it is a representation of the Flower of Life. I am guessing that the pattern is part of a Sufi dance. It would be interesting to know if this Sufi building itself was constructed using the measurements of the Seed of Life, Flower of Life – sacred geometry, especially because of the existence of that lower floor – I am only guessing, I do not know the truth of it.
So, you see Egypt is not just about pyramids, mummies and tombs, Cairo is a medieval city with one of the richest histories in the world. Former President Mubark recognised this and during his time as President, many buildings were saved, preserved and have been open to visitors for years – remember it was 2011 he resigned. However, most visitors do not know about these ancient treasures and so they usually do not allow themselves time in Cairo to explore them. Other treasures that I have been among the first to encourage people to visit over the years were Abydos/Dendera, the Islamic Museum, Abdeen Palace and the Cave Church in garbage city (the Moquottam Hills near the Citadel of Saladin).
There are many more extremely interesting monuments, tombs and mausoleums relating to the history of the Muhammad Ali dynasty, and the deposed King Farouk in Alexandria and Cairo that people should definitely try to experience. Plus, every Egyptian President (except Morsi) had their own pet projects which were part of their legacy to Egypt and which are rarely presented to tourists as worthy of a visit – but I’m doing my best to change that, bit by bit 🙂 Unfortunately time is very precious and not our friend in this regard!
Finally – in recent years the Nile Cruise Boats, as part of their evening entertainment, present the audience with a belly dancer and a “sufi” dance, I regret to say that, not only have I not been impressed by the “sufi” dancers, I have been appalled at their approach to “modernising” the performance. I am only saying this so that you will not think that if you see such a performance, you have seen a sufi dance – you have not. You will have seen a travesty. So sorry to have to say that.